Wood is cheaper to build and — surprisingly — recoups a higher percentage at resale, so it wins tight budgets and short holds. Composite costs more upfront but skips the stain-and-seal treadmill and carries 25–50-year warranties, so it wins long holds and low-maintenance households. Two myths to drop first: composite is low-maintenance, not maintenance-free, and dark composite usually runs hotter underfoot than wood in direct sun — not cooler. Whichever surface you pick, the frame beneath it is pressure-treated lumber either way.
This compares the decking surface and railing — the joists, beams, and posts are pressure-treated lumber regardless of what you walk on. Once you've chosen, size the boards, joists, and fasteners with the free Deck Calculator.
⚖️ Wood vs. Composite at a Glance
Head to Head
| Factor | Wood (PT / cedar) | Composite (capped) |
|---|---|---|
| Installed cost / sq ft (full deck) | PT ~$18–$48; cedar ~$22–$55 | ~$30–$75 |
| Resale recouped (2025 CvV) | ~95% | ~89% |
| Service life | ~15–20 years (maintained) | ~25–50 years (warranted) |
| Maintenance | Stain/seal every 2–3 years | Wash periodically; no sealing |
| Heat in direct sun | Cooler; ~120–135°F | Hotter; dark boards ~145–150°F+ |
| Joist spacing | 16" o.c. | 16" o.c. / 12" on the diagonal |
| Recycled content | None (renewable lumber) | Up to ~95% (Trex) |
Prices last reviewed July 2026. Installed deck cost swings with size, height, railing, and region — treat these as wide relative ranges, not quotes. For a size-specific estimate, use the deck cost guide.
💵 Cost: The Frame Is the Same, So the Gap Is Smaller Than It Looks
Installed, a full pressure-treated deck runs roughly $18–$48 per square foot (cedar $22–$55), while composite lands about $30–$75 depending on tier. The board price gap looks huge — PT decking boards are ~$3–$6/sq ft in materials versus ~$5–$18 for composite — but here's the part most guides miss: the substructure is identical pressure-treated lumber either way. Because the frame, footings, and labor don't change, upgrading the surface from wood to composite typically adds only around 15% to the total project, not the 2–3× the board prices imply.
📈 Resale ROI: Wood Actually Recoups More
This one surprises people, and most articles get it wrong. Per the 2025 Cost vs. Value Report (the standard remodeling-ROI survey), a wood deck addition recoups about 95% of its cost at resale, while a composite deck recoups about 89%. Composite adds more resale dollars in absolute terms (it's a pricier project), but wood recovers a higher percentage because its lower cost basis is easier to earn back — roughly a $18,000 wood job versus a $25,000 composite job on the standard 16×20 deck.
🔥 Heat: Composite Usually Runs Hotter, Not Cooler
A persistent myth is that composite stays cool. In direct sun it typically gets hotter than wood: field measurements have put dark capped composite around 145–150°F and up on a warm day versus pressure-treated pine in the 120–135°F range. Color is the biggest lever — light boards run far cooler than dark ones — and even lines marketed as heat-reducing still get hot barefoot in full sun. If your deck bakes all afternoon and you go barefoot, choose a light color (either material) and factor in shade.
🧽 Maintenance & Lifespan
- Wood needs cleaning and re-staining/sealing every 2–3 years to resist rot, cracking, and graying, plus occasional board and fastener repairs. Well maintained, a PT deck surface lasts ~15–20 years; neglected, far less.
- Composite is low-maintenance, not maintenance-free. Mold and mildew grow on the pollen/dirt film on the surface — not the polymer — so it still needs periodic soap-and-water washing (and prompt cleanup of stains to keep the stain warranty valid). No staining or sealing, ever.
- Warranties. Modern capped composite carries 25-year (entry) to 50-year (premium) product warranties plus 25–50-year fade/stain coverage — but those are warranty terms, not independent field studies. Wood carries no surface warranty.
- Capped vs. uncapped. Early-generation uncapped composite really did fade and grow mold — don't judge today's capped boards (a polymer shell warranted against fade) by a 2005-era reputation.
📋 Code, Joist Spacing & Fire
- Composite needs tighter joist spacing. Most capped composite installs at 16" on center perpendicular, but 12" on the diagonal (per each product's ICC-ES report). A common trap when reboarding an old frame built at 24" o.c.: it won't accept composite without adding joists. Wood decking is fine at 16".
- Composite is a surface, not a structure. It must sit on a code-compliant pressure-treated frame and be labeled to ASTM D7032 with its allowable span and load (IRC R507.2.2). It carries no structural load itself.
- Fire (WUI zones). In California's wildfire zones, decking must be ignition-resistant. Composite is combustible but rated: Trex Transcend is Class B flame spread, and cellular-PVC lines (AZEK, Trex Refuge) reach Class A. Check the CAL FIRE OSFM listed-products handbook for your product.
- Material-neutral rules — ledger attachment and flashing, guard loads, joist/beam spans, and stainless fasteners within 300 ft of saltwater — apply to the pressure-treated frame regardless of surface.
🎯 Which Should You Use?
- Tight upfront budget → wood (PT materials are a fraction of composite).
- Selling within a few years → wood (recoups a higher percentage at resale).
- Staying long-term / low maintenance appetite → composite (skip the stain-and-seal treadmill, 25–50-yr warranty).
- Hot, high-UV, or humid climate → composite for durability, but pick a light color to manage heat.
- Pool or coastal deck → composite (resists algae; use stainless fasteners near saltwater).
- You love real wood and will actually restain it → cedar or PT, mostly-shaded location.
- Reboarding an old 24"-o.c. frame → wood unless you add joists to hit composite's 16"/12" spacing.
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