Cabinet Calculator

How many cabinets do you need? Enter the linear feet of your base, wall, and tall cabinet run and this free calculator returns the box count at standard ANSI/KCMA A161.1 sizes, plus doors, drawers, hinges, drawer slides, knobs, pulls, fillers, end panels, and crown, light-rail, and toe-kick trim — a complete materials take-off, no pricing and no signup.

Cabinets are counted against standard 3-inch width increments and industry-average door and drawer ratios, with hinges scaled to door height per manufacturer spacing tables (ANSI/BHMA A156.9). It works for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, mudrooms, home offices, and garage storage — pick a room to load a typical layout, then tune the run to your own walls.

For a full kitchen — islands, NKBA work-triangle and landing checks, appliance panels — use the Kitchen Cabinets Calculator; for vanities, linen towers, medicine cabinets, and mirrors, use the Bathroom Cabinets Calculator. This generic take-off is the fast starting point when you just need the box and hardware counts.

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Cabinet Calculator

Estimate cabinets, doors, drawers, hinges, slides, knobs, pulls, fillers, and trim from your linear feet of base, wall, and tall cabinet run — for kitchens, baths, laundry rooms, and built-ins. Free, no signup.

Room & cabinet run

Measure the wall length each cabinet type runs along. Base = floor cabinets (34½" H), wall = uppers (12" D), tall = pantry/oven/utility (84–96" H). Stock cabinets step in 3-inch widths.

Boxes & doors

Trim & accessories

Standard cabinet sizes (ANSI/KCMA A161.1)

Stock cabinets step in 3-inch width increments. The take-off averages widths — a custom schedule can differ.

CabinetStandard widthsHeightDepth
Base9"–48" (3" steps)34½" (36" to counter)24"
Wall / upper9"–48" (3" steps)12", 15", 18", 24", 30", 36", 42"12"
Tall / pantry18", 24", 30", 36"84", 90", 96"24" (or 12")
Vanity (bath)18"–72"32"–36"21"

Hardware follows ANSI/BHMA A156.9; all composite-wood parts must meet EPA TSCA Title VI / CARB Phase 2.

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How to Use This Calculator

  1. Pick a room (kitchen, bath, laundry, mudroom, office, or garage) to load a typical cabinet layout, or choose Custom to enter your own.
  2. Enter the linear feet of base, wall, and tall cabinet run — measure the wall length each cabinet type runs along. Use 0 for any type you are not installing.
  3. Set construction (framed or frameless), ceiling height, door style, and overlay. These drive the reveal, hinge count, and trim — not the box count.
  4. Toggle soft-close hardware, cabinets-to-ceiling, crown molding, and light rail to match your plan.
  5. Enter filler strips, finished end panels, and any roll-out shelves or pull-out trash units.
  6. Click Calculate to get cabinets by type, doors, drawers, hinges, drawer slides, knobs, pulls, fillers, and crown/light-rail/toe-kick linear feet, plus ordering notes.
  7. For room-specific extras, follow the link to the Kitchen or Bathroom cabinet calculator.

Why the count rounds up and needs fillers

Stock and most semi-custom cabinets are only made in 3-inch width increments (9" to 48"), so a cabinet run almost never lands exactly on a wall. This calculator converts your linear feet to inches, divides by the average cabinet width for each type, and rounds up to whole boxes — then you close the leftover gap with 3-inch filler strips, which also give doors and drawers clearance to open past adjacent walls at inside corners. The counts are estimates from average cabinet widths and typical door/drawer ratios; a supplier working from your exact elevation will produce a precise cabinet schedule, but this take-off gets you the box, hardware, and trim quantities to budget and cross-check a quote. It reports materials only — no pricing — because cabinet prices swing enormously by line, finish, and market.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many cabinets do I need?

Measure the wall length (in feet) that your base, wall, and tall cabinets run along, then divide the inches by the average cabinet width — about 24" for base and wall cabinets and 30" for tall/pantry cabinets — and round up to whole boxes. A 20-foot base run works out to roughly ten 24" base cabinets. Because stock cabinets only come in 3-inch width steps, the real order rounds to standard sizes and you close the leftover gap with filler strips. This calculator does that math for every cabinet type at once and adds the doors, drawers, and hardware.

How do I measure linear feet of cabinets?

Run a tape along the wall where each cabinet type will sit and record the total length in feet — separately for base (floor) cabinets, wall (upper) cabinets, and tall pantry/oven cabinets, since they stack differently. Don't measure the cabinets themselves; measure the wall space they occupy. For an L-shaped or U-shaped layout, add the lengths of each leg. Leave out the space taken by a freestanding range or refrigerator, since no cabinet goes there.

What's the difference between this and the kitchen or bathroom cabinet calculators?

This is the general cabinet take-off: it counts boxes, doors, drawers, and hardware for any room from your linear feet. The Kitchen Cabinets Calculator adds kitchen-specific planning — islands, NKBA work-triangle and landing-area checks, and appliance and filler panels. The Bathroom Cabinets Calculator handles vanity door and drawer schedules by width, plus linen towers, medicine cabinets, and mirrors. Start here for a fast count, then use the room-specific tool when you're finalizing a kitchen or bath.

Framed or frameless cabinets — which should I pick?

Framed (face-frame) construction is the North American default: a hardwood frame on the front of the box adds racking strength and is the only style that supports inset doors. Frameless (full-access, European) cabinets skip the face frame, so the doors mount directly to the box and you get roughly 10% more interior space on the same nominal width — but the boxes must be perfectly square or full-overlay doors reveal the racking. Your choice changes the reveal, interior volume, and available overlays, not the number of boxes.

How many hinges does each cabinet door need?

Manufacturer hinge-spacing tables (aligned with ANSI/BHMA A156.9) set it by door height and weight: two concealed hinges for a door up to about 40 inches tall, three for 40–60 inches, and four beyond 60 inches. Most base and wall doors take two. Tall pantry doors are usually split into an upper and lower leaf, so each leaf still lands in the two-to-three-hinge range. The calculator applies this rule automatically from your ceiling height and cabinet mix.

Why does the count round up and add filler strips?

Stock and most semi-custom cabinets are only built in 3-inch width increments (9" to 48"), so a run almost never lands exactly on a wall. Rounding up to whole boxes and closing the remainder with 3-inch filler strips is standard practice — the filler also gives doors and drawers room to clear an adjacent wall at an inside corner, where two cabinets meet at 90 degrees. Most runs need two or more fillers.

Does this calculator include cabinet prices?

No — it reports materials only: cabinet counts, doors, drawers, hinges, slides, knobs, pulls, fillers, end panels, and crown/light-rail/toe-kick trim. Cabinet pricing swings enormously by product line, door style, finish, and local market, and prices drift fast, so a quoted number would be misleading. Use these quantities to budget and to sanity-check a supplier's quote — the box and hardware counts are what a bid should line up against.