Tankless Water Heater Size Calculator

This free tankless water heater sizing calculator answers the question a tank calculator can't: a tankless unit has no reserve, so it must heat every gallon the instant you draw it. That makes sizing a two-part question — how much hot water runs at once (GPM), and how far the unit has to raise the temperature (ΔT). Multiply them and you get the required output. Get either wrong and you get lukewarm showers, which is the number-one complaint about undersized tankless installs.

Count the fixtures that could run simultaneously during your peak — two showers plus a kitchen faucet, say — using hot-water flow rates from Rinnai's sizing guideline, with WaterSense and California Title 20 presets for efficient fixtures. Pick your climate so the calculator knows how cold your incoming water starts; northern groundwater near 40°F demands far more energy per gallon than southern water near 68°F. The result is your peak GPM, temperature rise, and the BTU/hr (gas) or kW (electric) a unit must deliver.

The most important thing the results tell you is to shop on the curve, not the box. A unit advertised at "9 GPM" hits that only at a small temperature rise; at a real 68°F winter rise it might deliver half that. Always confirm the model delivers your peak GPM at your ΔT on its published GPM-vs-rise chart. And if you're considering electric tankless, the electrical demand is enormous — size the circuits with our tankless breaker calculator before committing. Free, no signup.

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Tankless Water Heater Size Calculator

What GPM tankless do you need? A tankless heats water on demand, so size it by how much runs at once and how cold your water starts — not by tank gallons. Enter your peak fixtures and climate for the flow and BTU/kW to shop for. Free, no signup.

🚿This calculator sizes the appliance — the GPM and BTU/kW a unit must deliver. Going electric? Once you know the kW, size the circuits and check your panel with the Tankless Water Heater Breaker Calculator.

What runs at the same time?

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Groundwater is coldest in winter — that's when a tankless is most stressed, so size for your cold-season inlet, not the annual average.

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How to Use This Calculator

  1. Count the fixtures that could draw hot water at the same time during your busiest moment — back-to-back showers, a shower plus the kitchen sink, etc.
  2. Choose a fixture-efficiency preset: Rinnai typical, WaterSense (efficient), or California Title 20 (strictest) — lower-flow fixtures shrink the unit you need.
  3. Pick your climate so the calculator uses the right incoming water temperature, and set your target temperature (120°F is standard).
  4. Choose gas (BTU/hr) or electric (kW) for the output unit.
  5. Click Calculate for your peak GPM, temperature rise, and required output — then match it against a model's GPM-vs-rise curve.

Tankless sizing vs the circuit

This calculator sizes the appliance — the GPM and BTU/kW the unit must produce. If you're going electric, that unit then needs a circuit, and electric tankless circuits are huge (a whole-home unit can draw 100+ amps across multiple breakers). Size the electrical side separately with the tankless breaker calculator, and check your panel can take it before you buy.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size tankless water heater do I need?

Size it by two numbers, not by household headcount: peak simultaneous flow (GPM) and temperature rise (ΔT). Add up the hot-water GPM of every fixture that could run at once — two showers plus a kitchen faucet is about 4.4 GPM on standard fixtures — then figure your rise from incoming water temperature to your 120°F setpoint. A cold-climate home at a 68°F rise needs roughly 150,000 BTU/hr for that demand; a warm-climate home at a 45°F rise needs far less. The calculator does both and gives you the BTU or kW to shop for.

Why does my tankless water heater's GPM rating drop in winter?

Because deliverable flow is inversely tied to temperature rise. A unit rated '9 GPM' hits that only at a small rise — often 35°F. In winter, northern groundwater arrives near 40°F, so reaching a 120°F shower means an 80°F rise, and the same unit might deliver only 4–5 GPM. This is why you size on the manufacturer's GPM-vs-temperature-rise curve at your actual winter inlet temperature, never on the headline max GPM. Undersizing this way is the top cause of 'my tankless can't keep up' complaints.

How many BTU does a tankless water heater need?

BTU/hr = GPM × 500 × temperature rise. For 4.4 GPM at a 68°F rise: 4.4 × 500 × 68 = about 150,000 BTU/hr, near the top of the residential gas range (units cap around 199,000 BTU/hr). Heavier simultaneous demand or colder climates can exceed a single unit, requiring two in parallel or trimmed peak usage. For electric, divide BTU by 3,412 to get kW — that 150,000 BTU example is about 44 kW, which is a very large electrical load.

Can my electrical panel handle an electric tankless water heater?

Often not without an upgrade — this is the hidden dealbreaker. A whole-home electric tankless can draw 100+ amps across multiple double-pole breakers, which is most or all of a 150-amp service and two-thirds of a 200-amp. Gas tankless sidesteps this entirely. If you're set on electric, size the circuits and check your service capacity with our tankless breaker calculator before buying — the electrical feasibility, not the plumbing, is usually what decides the project.

Is a tankless water heater worth it vs a tank?

Tankless wins on endless hot water (it never runs out mid-shower), a 20+ year lifespan, and near-zero standby loss. Tank wins on install cost (tankless often needs gas-line, venting, or major electrical upgrades), simplicity, and better performance for short simultaneous bursts. If your complaint is running out of hot water, tankless solves it; if it's just an aging tank, a right-sized tank is cheaper. Size a conventional tank instead with our water heater size calculator.