Attic Insulation Calculator

This free attic insulation calculator tells you how much insulation your attic needs to reach the recommended R-value — for either blown-in loose-fill or batts. Enter the attic floor area, set the target by IECC climate zone (or type an R-value), and it returns the whole-bag count with a waste allowance already added, using each product's FTC-mandated coverage chart or bag label.

Attics are their own job, so the calculator handles what a generic insulation estimate misses: it subtracts any existing insulation so you only top up the difference, reports the settled depth and the deeper blow-to depth for loose-fill separately, and sizes the eave baffles you need to stop insulation from choking the soffit vents. It also flags when a deep cellulose fill would overload a thin ceiling.

Everything is grounded in the ENERGY STAR / 2021 IECC recommended attic R-values (R-30 to R-60 by zone), the FTC R-value Rule (16 CFR 460), ASTM C739/C764/C665, IRC R806 attic ventilation, and USG ceiling dead-load guidance. Quantities only — no pricing, no signup.

View material estimation guides →

Attic Insulation Calculator

Find how much insulation your attic needs to hit the code R-value — bag count for blown-in or batts, the depth to blow to, and the eave vent baffles to keep the soffits clear. Free, no signup.

How you're insulating

Blown-in loose-fill is the attic default; batts drop between the joists.

Attic area

The net floor area you're covering — roughly your home's footprint.

Target R-value

How much insulation you want — by climate zone, or a value you enter.

Not sure of your zone? Use the climate zone calculator to look it up by ZIP. Targets follow the ENERGY STAR / 2021 IECC recommendation; local code may be lower.

Existing insulation

If there's already insulation up there, we subtract its R-value so you only add what's missing.

Material & waste

Fiberglass is lighter and settles less; cellulose reaches the R-value in less depth.

Coverage comes from the selected product's FTC bag chart. Bags always round up. 5–10% overblow covers job variation.

Eave ventilation baffles

Baffles keep insulation out of the soffit vents — one per rafter bay along each vented eave.

Measure the eave runs that have soffit vents (usually the two long sides). Rough guide for a square attic: about 2 × √(area) ≈ 63 ft.

Attic depth chart — Owens Corning ProPink L77

Bags per 1,000 sq ft and the depth to blow at each attic R-value, straight from the manufacturer's FTC coverage chart (16 CFR 460.12). Change the product above to see its chart.

R-valueCoverage (sq ft/bag)Bags per 1,000 sq ftSettled depthBlow to
R-13184.65.44.8"4.8"
R-1912587"7"
R-30771311.1"11.1"
R-3859.916.714.1"14.1"
R-494522.218.1"18.1"
R-6035.82822.2"22.2"

Coverage is "maximum net" (framing excluded). Cellulose is rated at settled thickness, so its blow-to depth is deeper than the settled depth. Charts are periodically revised by the manufacturer.

Why the material changes the depth

An attic's R-value is a depth problem. The bag count comes off the coverage chart, but how deep you build depends on the material's R-per-inch. Every column below is the same R-value — the higher a material's R-per-inch, the less depth it takes to get there. That's why blown fiberglass sits deeper than blown cellulose for the same attic R, and why an R-60 attic can be surprisingly thick.

R-value = R-per-inch × thickness. To hit R-30, closed-cell foam needs ~4.6″ but a fiberglass batt needs ~10.3″ — same R, very different depth. Compare materials by R-value, not by inches.Source: Per-inch R-values per the calculator’s material data (ASTM C518 / manufacturer TDS)See the What R-value means diagram →(opens in a new tab)

Plan disposal before you start

Smaller jobs still produce more debris than a few trash bags can hold. Check what's allowed in a dumpster and which disposal option fits the scope.

See disposal options →

Related Calculators

Explore Insulation & Climate: calculators, diagrams & guidesEvery calculator, cross-section diagram, and guide for this trade in one place.

How to Use This Calculator

  1. Choose your method: blown-in loose-fill (the attic default) or batts between the joists.
  2. Enter your attic floor area in square feet — roughly your home's footprint (or the area you're insulating).
  3. Set your target R-value: pick your IECC climate zone for the recommended level, or enter an R-value directly. Not sure of your zone? Use the climate zone calculator to look it up by ZIP.
  4. For blown-in, subtract any existing insulation (depth and type) and pick the product; for batts, enter the coverage printed on the bag.
  5. Add your eave length and rafter spacing to size the ventilation baffles, then click Calculate.
  6. Read the bag count, the blow-to depth (blown-in), and the baffle count — plus the coverage chart below for depth at every attic R-value.

Why the Attic Gets the Most Insulation in the House

The attic carries the highest R-value of any assembly in a house — R-49 to R-60 across most of the US — because heat rises and the ceiling is the biggest escape path. That's why "how much insulation for my attic" is a different question from insulating a wall or floor. Two things make the attic estimate its own calculation. First, depth: reaching R-60 with blown fiberglass takes about 20–22 inches of loose-fill, and the calculator reports both the settled depth (what delivers the R-value) and the deeper blow-to depth for cellulose, which settles 10–14%. Second, ventilation: a vented attic needs its soffit-to-ridge airflow to keep working, so you install a baffle in each rafter bay at the eaves before you add insulation — otherwise the new insulation buries the intake vents and traps moisture. This calculator sizes both the insulation and the baffles, subtracts insulation you already have so you only top up the gap, and warns you if a heavy cellulose fill would exceed what your ceiling drywall can hold.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much insulation do I need for my attic?

It depends on your climate zone and how much you already have. The ENERGY STAR / 2021 IECC recommendation is R-30 in the far south (Zone 1), R-49 in the mid-south (Zones 2–3), and R-60 across the northern half of the US (Zones 4–8). For a bag count: divide your attic area by the coverage on the bag at your target R and round up. Worked example: 1,000 sq ft at R-49 with Owens Corning L77 blown fiberglass covers 45 sq ft/bag, so ~23 bags before waste (~25 with 10% overblow). This calculator sets the target from your zone, subtracts any existing insulation, and returns the bag count for blown-in or batts.

What R-value should attic insulation be — R-38, R-49, or R-60?

The current 2021 IECC / ENERGY STAR recommendation is R-60 for most of the US (climate zones 4–8), R-49 for zones 2–3, and R-30 for zone 1. Older code editions still enforced in many areas required only R-38 (zones 2–3) or R-49 (zones 4–8), so your legal minimum may be lower than the recommendation. R-38 is now considered a minimum retrofit rather than a target. Set your climate zone in the calculator to see the recommended level, and verify the enforced edition with your local building department.

How deep should attic insulation be for R-49 or R-60?

Depth depends on the material. Blown fiberglass is about 2.5–3.0 R per inch settled, so R-49 is roughly 16.5–18.5" and R-60 is about 20–22". Blown cellulose is denser at ~3.6–3.8 R per inch, so R-49 is about 13–13.5" and R-60 about 16". Batts reach the R-value at their labeled thickness (an R-49 attic batt is ~16"). Important for loose-fill: cellulose is rated at its settled depth and settles 10–14%, so you blow it deeper and let it drop; fiberglass barely settles, so blow-to and settled depth are the same.

Should I use blown-in or batt insulation in my attic?

Blown-in loose-fill is the attic default: it flows over the top of the joists and around wiring, chimneys, and framing for a seamless blanket, and it's fast to reach R-49/R-60. Batts suit small, walkable, obstruction-free attics you can reach by hand, but every cut around framing leaves a gap that cuts real-world R-value. For a deep target over an open attic, blown-in usually wins on both coverage and labor; for a tiny attic, batts between the joists are workable. This calculator estimates either — pick the method at the top.

Do I need baffles when I add attic insulation?

Yes, in a vented attic. Baffles (rafter/soffit vent chutes) keep the new insulation from drifting into the soffit vents and blocking the intake air that IRC R806 requires — without them you trap moisture and invite ice dams. Install one baffle per rafter bay along each vented eave. This calculator sizes them from your eave length and rafter spacing: 60 ft of eave at 24" on-center is 30 baffles. Also keep insulation 3" clear of any non-IC-rated recessed lights (CPSC 16 CFR 1404).

Can I add attic insulation over what's already there?

Yes — new blown-in loose-fill or unfaced batts go right over old, dry insulation, as long as it isn't compressed, wet, or moldy (and remove any existing vapor facing if you add over batts). Estimate the R-value you already have (existing depth × the material's R per inch), subtract it from your target, and only add the difference. The blown-in mode of this calculator does that subtraction for you when you enter the existing depth and type, so you don't over-buy.

Can attic insulation be too heavy for the ceiling?

Yes — it's an overlooked risk with deep cellulose. USG limits unsupported insulation to about 1.3 lb/sq ft over ½" drywall on 24" o.c. framing. Cellulose at R-60 runs about 2.1–2.3 lb/sq ft, which exceeds that limit and can sag the drywall; blown fiberglass at R-60 is only ~0.9 lb/sq ft and is well under. If you're blowing deep cellulose, use 5/8" ceiling board, 16" o.c. framing, sag-resistant board, or switch to fiberglass. The calculator flags this automatically when cellulose crosses the limit.